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Food Review: Corenucopia by Clare Smyth
- karineh17
- Jan 19
- 3 min read
If you’ve been following us for a while, you’ll know our long-standing love for Clare Smyth’s Michelin-starred restaurant Core by Clare Smyth, so much so that it even made it into our latest Overhyped or Hidden Gem: Second London Edition.
So when we heard the chef was opening a more relaxed yet still refined bistrot in Belgravia (Corenucopia, 18-22 Holbein Pl, London SW1W 8NL), we knew we had to try it and do a little food review. It may not hold three Michelin stars, but securing a reservation is no easy feat.
We were lucky enough to book two seatings, and today we’re sharing our thoughts on the first one.
Starters:
Chicken liver parfait: I’m extremely picky when it comes to chicken liver parfait and rarely order it, but I knew choosing it here wouldn’t be a mistake. Quite the opposite, it was absolutely to die for. I could easily have eaten two more servings… although doing so would have left no room to explore the rest of the menu.
Lobster bisque with cheese toast: A refined dish presented in a comforting, cosy way especially with the reassuring cheese toast served on the side. It was undeniably delicious and perfectly executed, but would I order it again? Perhaps not. It simply didn’t quite hit the same spot as some of the other starters, despite its flawless execution.
Crispy veal sweetbread: This was my least favourite starter not because it wasn’t exquisite, but simply because it wouldn’t usually be my first choice. The veal was beautifully tender, with a crunchy, indulgently fatty exterior that worked deliciously well against the acidity of the cabbage. Of all the starters we tried, this was definitely the most substantial and “heaviest” option.
Leek vinaigrette: On paper, this might sound like a fairly unassuming dish, but I’m so glad I ordered it it ended up being my favourite starter. I love when something so classic and unpretentious is executed in such an exquisite, refined, and intriguing way. If you had to choose just one starter, this would be my pick, simply because I’ve never tasted anything quite like it elsewhere.
Mains:
“Fish and Chips”: A beautiful classic dish elevated into a true masterpiece. The portion is wonderfully generous, featuring two large sole fillets. The lobster mousse is perfectly balanced and never overpowers the dish, while the batter is crunchy yet satisfyingly hearty. You’re also invited to choose from a tray of different vinegars, we tried the sherry and white wine options, both of which added an extra layer of brightness and took the dish to another level.
Mushroom pie: I wasn’t particularly keen on ordering this at first, but I’m so glad I did. If you’re vegetarian, you certainly won’t miss out on Clare Smyth’s cuisine, this is far from a simple or bland mushroom pie. The depth of flavour and richness are truly indescribable, and the portion size is once again generous for a main course.
Dauphine: You can even choose from a dedicated potato menu. Since we already had chips with the fish and chips, we opted to try a different option, the dauphine. They were deliciously comforting, perfectly crisp, and ideal for a cold winter night.
Dessert:
Custard Tart: It may sound like a simple dessert, but in Clare Smyth’s hands it becomes a true masterpiece. Lightly dusted with nutmeg, the custard tart is paired with an exceptional Earl Grey cream that lifts the dessert in the most subtle yet refreshingly elegant way. The crust is beautifully buttery while remaining impressively light. With such an extensive dessert menu, we can only hope that one day a full dessert tasting menu will make an appearance because every single option deserves to be tried.
Sommelier: There’s an incredible wine selection — though that comes as no surprise. What truly stands out, and is rare in many fine dining restaurants, is the excellent range of wines available by the glass. On top of that, the by-the-glass pricing is refreshingly reasonable given the quality and depth of the list.
Private room: If you’re looking for privacy, there’s a beautiful, cosy yet wood-panelled room with a glass door overlooking the stunning wine cellar. While there’s no set menu, the à la carte offering ultimately feels like the better choice, allowing everyone to order exactly what they want.
Pricing: Despite not being a Michelin-starred restaurant and positioning itself as a more casual concept, the quality of the food feels undeniably Michelin-grade, especially at such an impressively accessible price point. Go anywhere in London right now and you’d be hard-pressed to find a restaurant that truly delivers on every level: food, service, and atmosphere. Yet once again, Clare Smyth has managed exactly that. We can easily see Corenucopia becoming a legend in its own right — just like Core by Clare Smyth.
Food overall: 9.5/10
Service: 10/10
Atmosphere: 10/10
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